High pilling and abrasion resistance yarns
Pilling and abrasion are two distinct problems that affect the appearance and longevity of textile fabrics. Pilling refers to the formation of small, fuzzy fibers on the surface of the fabric. This issue occurs when loose fibers get tangled during wear and washing, giving the fabric a worn look. On the other hand, abrasion is the gradual deterioration of the fabric surface. Abrasion happens due to friction or rubbing, which can lead to material loss and may create holes or thin areas.
While both issues stem from mechanical forces:
a) pilling mainly impacts the aesthetic aspect of a fabric, whereas
b) abrasion affects its structural strength.
Understanding these differences is crucial when selecting appropriate materials for various applications and for implementing effective care and maintenance techniques.
In the textile industry, “pilling” and “abrasion” are common concerns for both consumers and manufacturers. Grasping the differences between these two issues is essential for effective management and for ensuring the durability of fabrics. Although they significantly influence the look and lifespan of textiles, they arise from different sources and require tailored solutions.
CAUSES OF PILLING AND ABRASION
Pilling happens when loose fibers on a fabric’s surface get entangled, creating small balls or pills. This is especially frequent in materials made from shorter fibers such as wool, cotton, and synthetic blends.
The process starts when fibers loosen from wear, and as they rub against each other or other surfaces, they begin to form pills. These pills can cling to the fabric due to stronger fibers, making them difficult to remove without damaging the material. The appearance of pilling can give clothing a worn-out look, even if it’s new. Pills lead to dissatisfaction among consumers and potential financial losses for manufacturers. Abrasion is deterioration of a fabric’s surface due to constant friction or rubbing, which can occur from activities like sitting, walking, or washing.
Types of abrasion
There are three main types of abrasion:
- Plain or Flat Abrasion – involves wearing away a flat section of the material;
- Edge Abrasion – occurs at areas like collars and folds;
- Flex Abrasion – involves rubbing that is accompanied by bending or flexing;
Abrasion can cause thinning, holes, and overall deterioration of the fabric’s integrity. Unlike pilling, which mainly affects surface appearance, abrasion compromises the fabric’s structural strength, rendering it more functional and susceptible to damage. This is particularly concerning for durable items, such as workwear, upholstery and outdoor equipment.
To combat pilling, manufacturers frequently utilize longer fibers in their fabrics, as these are less likely to loosen and form pills. Fabric treatments can also be applied to reduce pilling risks. For consumers, using a fabric shaver or pill remover can assist in managing existing pills, although this is a temporary fix that may require repeated intervention. Washing garments inside out and employing gentle cycles can also lessen friction and reduce pilling.
Typically, fabrics that exhibit high resistance to abrasion and pilling tend to possess strong durability, wear resistance, and elasticity. Examples of such fabrics include wool, cashmere, silk, polyester and nylon. Additionally, some materials undergo special treatments to enhance their resistance to abrasion and pilling.
WHAT IS ABRASION RESISTANCE AND WHEN DOES PILLING OCCUR?
Fabric abrasion resistance refers to how well a material can endure wear and tear caused by friction, which plays a crucial role in its durability. This characteristic is influenced by the types of fibers used in the fabric’s construction. Different fibers offering varying levels of resistance—cotton, for example, has a low abrasion resistance, while nylon shows a high level of resistance.
The propensity for pilling is also linked to the fiber types, as some fibers naturally tend to pill more than others. To reduce pilling, manufacturers can use higher-quality fibers or apply treatments like anti-pilling finishes.
In a study by Asayesh and Kolahi Mahmoodi (2024), researchers developed interlock fabrics. These fabrics feature different numbers of miss or tuck stitches across various wales. Interlock fabrcis were assessed by their pilling performance and abrasion resistance. The results revealed that increasing the number of miss or tuck stitches resulted in lower abrasion resistance and a higher likelihood of pilling.
Furthermore, having miss or tuck stitches on both sides of the fabric provides better abrasion resistance and pilling characteristics. This is in comparison to fabrics with stitches on one side. Additionally, fabrics that contain miss stitches demonstrate more resistance to abrasion and pilling compared to those featuring tuck stitches (Asayesh and Kolahi Mahmoodi, 2024).
HOW TO TEST/CHECK ABRASION RESISTANCE?
To assess the abrasion resistance of fabrics, abrasion and pilling testers are employed. These testers replicate the kinds of wear and tear that fabrics endure in everyday situations. For example, such as rubbing against other materials or through washing and drying processes. The testing procedure involves placing a fabric sample between two abrasive surfaces and subjecting it to a predetermined number of cycles. Afterward, the fabric is examined for signs of wear or pilling. The outcomes of these tests can help gauge the durability of various fabrics.
In a study performed by El-Dessouki (2024) abrasion characteristics and pilling performance of socks were tested. Different materials were used for a comparison. Tested socks were composed of cotton, polyamide, polyester and acrylic.
In the research The Martindale Abrasion and Pilling Tester is used for assessing fabric abrasion and pilling. The Martindale tester, which operates as previously outlined, is widely recognized for its effectiveness in abrasion testing. Beti Textile Industry d.o.o. possesses a Martindale tester that serves it’s intended function.
HOW TO AVOID PILLING AND ABRASION?
The results showed that the abrasion resistance value of the socks can be increased by a number of measures.
These are:
a) by use of the thicker yarns;
b) by adding polyamide to the structure;
c) increasing the polyester/polyamide ratio in the socks that are combined with cotton;
d) using polyamide yarns with enhanced abrasion and pilling resistance.
Typically, fabrics that exhibit high resistance to abrasion and pilling tend to possess strong durability, wear resistance, and elasticity. Examples of such fabrics include wool, cashmere, silk, polyester and nylon. Additionally, some materials undergo special treatments to enhance their resistance to abrasion and pilling.
At BETI d.o.o., we are pleased to offer a range of polyamide (nylon) and polyester yarns that exhibit excellent resistance to abrasion and pilling. For example, socks from our upcycle program have a great resistance to pilling and abrasion.