What’s Really in Our Clothes? A Closer Look at Bisphenols in Textiles

Not All Materials Are Equal—And That’s Okay

Recently, there’s been increased attention on bisphenols found in synthetic textiles, especially sportswear. This has led to a tendency to label certain materials (like synthetics) as “bad” and others (like cotton) as “good.” But the reality is more nuanced.

All textiles—natural or synthetic—require chemistry. Cotton isn’t naturally white or wrinkle-free, and polyester doesn’t come ready-dyed. Different fibers need different treatments, and chemical inputs vary depending on the material, its performance needs, and its use case.

Testing only one chemical, like bisphenol A (BPA), on one type of fiber and drawing broad conclusions can lead to misleading impressions. It’s a bit like testing for herbicides on polyester and concluding it’s unsafe—it just doesn’t apply. That’s why certifications like OEKO-TEX® test for over 100 potentially hazardous substances, not just one.

Where and Why Chemicals Are Used

Textile production includes many steps, from fiber cultivation and creation to dyeing, printing, finishing, and garment assembly. Chemicals are used to:

• Stimulate growth of natural fibers and protect them from pests
• Fix dyes and prevent color fading
• Add water, stain, or wrinkle resistance
• Control microbial growth
• Improve softness, durability, or elasticity

Some of the most discussed chemical groups include PFAS, phthalates, NPEOs, organotins, flame retardants, and yes—bisphenols. But again, it’s about context, concentration, and control—not fear.

Bisphenols: Not Just in Textiles

Bisphenols, particularly Bisphenol A (BPA: 2,2-bis(4-hydroxyphenyl)propane; CAS Number 80-05-7), are synthetic chemical compounds widely used in the production of polycarbonate plastics and epoxy resins. These substances are known endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) that can mimic estrogen and interfere with hormone functions.

Outside the textile industry, BPA is primarily found in:

• Food and beverage containers (e.g., plastic bottles, food storage containers)
• Epoxy resin coatings (used inside food and drink cans)
• Thermal paper (receipts and tickets)
• Medical devices (dental materials), Automotive components and electronics

In textiles, bisphenols may appear in certain synthetic yarns, as dye-fixing agents, or surface treatments like water repellents.

BPA became headline news in 2023 when the Center for Environmental Health (CEH) in the U.S. detected high levels in sportswear. It reminded the industry—and consumers—that transparency matters.

Recently, the Slovenian Consumers’ Association raised concerns about the presence of bisphenols in underwear. The study included both adult and children’s underwear of various materials (cotton, nylon/polyamide, other), brands, and price ranges. According to the findings, bisphenols were most commonly found in undergarments made from polyamide. This is expected, as bisphenols are primarily introduced during the dyeing process, which enhances color fastness on synthetic yarns and fibers. Cotton, on the other hand, is exposed to other potentially harmful chemicals (AZO dyes, AXO, nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEOs), formaldehyde, triclosan – to name a few) but not to bisphenols. The study was also not precise in distinguishing between BPA and bisphenols in total. As there are up to 3500 chemical substances used in textile production, it is impossible for a consumer to make an informed decision based on a test of a single one. Here government regulation and voluntary standards play a significant role.

European Regulations and Monitoring Regarding Bisphenols and Other Chemicals

The European Union has been proactive in banning, restricting and regulating toxic textile chemicals through several mechanisms:

• REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals): EU’s key regulation that identifies Substances of Very High Concern (SVHCs) and restricts or bans their use.
• Stockholm Convention: PFOS, PFOA, SCCPs, and decaBDE are listed under Annex A/B, mandating their global phase-out.
• Water Framework Directive: Lists hazardous substances like NPEOs and PFAS for control in aquatic environments.
• MRSL (Manufacturers Restricted Substance List): A voluntary ZDHC initiative that bans certain chemicals across the production chain, not just in the final product.

European Scientific Committee on consumer Safety (SCCS) published an expert opinion on the presence of Bisphenol A in clothing articles

The Role of Voluntary Standards

Many of our clients follow strict Restricted Substances Lists (RSLs) that often go way beyond legal requirements. In addition to OEKO-TEX® and EU Ecolabel, we also work with GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification.

OEKO-TEX® takes a precautionary and science-based approach to regulating bisphenols in textiles. Under its STANDARD 100 certification, it currently restricts several well-known bisphenols due to their classification as endocrine disruptors. Specifically, Bisphenol A (BPA), Bisphenol S (BPS), and Bisphenol F (BPF) are tested and must not exceed 100 mg/kg, regardless of product class.

The requirements set by OEKO-TEX® vary by product class—from Class I (for babies and toddlers) to Class IV (for decorative items). At Beti, we test our yarns to meet the most stringent requirements—Product Class I, which ensures the highest level of safety, even for sensitive skin.

In addition to regulated substances, OEKO-TEX® maintains an observation list for chemicals of emerging concern. Several bisphenol analogues are currently under scrutiny, including BPAF (Bisphenol AF), BPB, BPE, and BPZ. These are not yet subject to limit values but are monitored due to growing scientific evidence of potential health and environmental risks.

By aligning with OEKO-TEX® criteria, we ensure our products are tested for both current and future risks—supporting safer textiles across the supply chain.

While GRS is best known for verifying recycled content, it also:

• Requires improved chemical management
• Imposes stricter substance limits than many legal frameworks
• Encourages social and environmental progress

We’re proud to be part of that journey.

From Awareness to Action: What Beti Is Doing

At Beti, we believe in embracing complexity—not avoiding it. Bisphenols are a valid concern in textile production, and we take that seriously. Through continuous improvement, close attention to detail, and a strong commitment to safer materials, we’ve made significant progress.

By adhering to OEKO-TEX® Standard 100, Product Class I (the most stringent level, intended for babies and young children), and by following strict MRSLs (Manufacturing Restricted Substances Lists) required by many of our customers, we’ve ensured that our production is now entirely BPA-free. Detailed analysis of both our chemical inputs and finished, dyed yarns has also shown that other bisphenol types are present at levels five times lower than OEKO-TEX® limits—well within safe thresholds.

In 2024, we took things a step further by developing a completely bisphenol-free (BP-free) yarn. The journey wasn’t simple—eliminating bisphenols while maintaining our signature vibrant color range and perfect colour fastness (to washing, perspiration, and rubbing) demanded months of R&D, testing, and collaboration. But we did it. Our R&D team worked hand-in-hand with trusted suppliers and customers to identify safer alternatives and optimize our production.

This effort also led to a major upgrade in our dyeing process: DyeCare 2.0—our next-generation, bisphenol-free dyeing technology. Choosing the right auxiliaries and refining application parameters enabled us to achieve consistent, high-performance results.

Testing was another challenge. As bisphenol analysis requires specialized equipment, we partnered with certified external laboratories – we tested not only our yarns, but also finished products such as garments, fabrics, and socks.

Several of our largest clients are now transitioning to bisphenol-free yarns, and a growing share of our production is completely bisphenol-free. It’s a step toward safer, more sustainable textiles, without compromise on quality or performance.

Looking ahead, we’re excited to expand this vision even further. One of our newest innovations is algae-dyed yarns. These yarns use dye made from renewable algae biomass—a completely toxic-free solution that contains zero bisphenols and no harmful chemicals. With algae-dyed yarns, we are detoxifying and decarbonizing textiles, while preserving the durability and performance of synthetic materials. This innovation marks the birth of a new product category—one that brings botanical functionality and eco-innovation into the heart of the apparel and textile industry.

Everyday Tips to Reduce Exposure to Bisphenols

Chemicals are not hidden in industrial buildings – let’s be honest: exposure to chemicals is part of modern life. But there are simple ways to reduce unnecessary contact – also with bisphenols:

While it’s difficult to completely avoid exposure to potentially harmful substances, certain habits can significantly reduce it:

• Use glass, stainless steel, or ceramic containers instead of plastic.
• Avoid microwaving food in plastic containers.
• Look for “BPA Free” labels on food-contact items.
• Limit canned foods, which may be lined with BPA-containing resins.
• Wash new clothes before wearing them, especially if they’ll touch your skin.
• Remove wet sportswear promptly after use.
• Choose textiles made in the EU, where chemical regulations are stricter.
• Look for trusted labels like OEKO-TEX®, GRS (for synthetics), and GOTS (for natural fibers)

Final Thought

At Beti, we’re not afraid to talk about challenges—because that’s how change begins. We believe in responsible production, practical solutions, and continuous improvement. Let’s keep the conversation going—without blame or fear, but with facts, transparency, and progress.